Cruising down the river Chobe
Much as I love exploring Africa on my own, there’s something to be said for leaning back, relaxing your mind, maybe even putting your feet up, and trusting an expert to handle the details. We started our Botswana trip with one such experience: flying over the Okavango Delta. After that flight, we spent several days driving ourselves across Khama Rhino Sanctuary, Kubu Island, Nxai Pan, and the Khwai community concession. By our last morning at Khwai, we agreed that we could all do with some relaxation.
But we couldn’t relax yet. We had a long drive to Kasane ahead of us. We made things more complicated by taking another wrong turn. Instead of going through the Savuti Marsh, we followed the Chobe cut line and turned east near Savute camp toward Ghoha gate. The road was worse than anything we’d seen before. We hoped it would get better, but our choices didn’t help. The staff at Ghoha Gate told us to avoid the shorter route right after the gate and take the next turn northeast. I’m not sure why, but we ignored the advice and took the wrong road.
Always listen to the park staff. Even if your GPS or your gut says otherwise, the locals know best. That short stretch of road (if you call it that), after the Ghoha gate, was hellish. I’d have been more comfortable in a tumble dryer. We had to use low range a few times to get out of thick sand. In the end, we made it to Kachikau in one piece. From there, the roads got better until we reached the B8 to Kasane.
At Kasane, we booked a campsite at Chobe Safari Lodge. With hot showers and shaded stands, it was a big step up from our earlier camps. But the real treat was the photo boat we rented from CNP Safaris and their guide, Neal Cooper.The CNP Safaris photo boat leaves from the Chobe Safari Lodge docks. It seats eight photographers, each with a swivel seat and a gimbal head. If you have heavy gear, the setup makes shooting easy. Plus, you get snacks and drinks. It’s luxe central!
During the dry season, the Chobe River serves as a vital lifeline for the wildlife in the area. There’s activity along its shores all day long, and if you’re lucky, there should be plenty of photographic opportunities. Yes, predators are rare. You’ll mostly see elephants, birds, and other common animals. But the scenery is beautiful, and the evening light is perfect for photos. We had some excellent photo opportunities with elephants at the famous Elephant Bay, as well as while observing African fish eagles hunting.
Photography advice
To be honest, it’s difficult to make poor photographs on the river. The river itself acts as a giant reflector, softening harsh shadows to lengthen your shooting window. If you have any experience photographing on water, you’ll come away with some good images. Here are some tips if you’re planning such an activity.
You don’t need a photo boat unless you have heavy gear or want to film. The boat rental costs about $750 per trip, even if you split it. A regular boat is much cheaper if you don’t need camera support or snacks.
If you can shoot handheld, stay close to water level when possible to create some foreground blur. Position yourself at eye level, or even below, with some of your subjects.
Be decisive about what you want to shoot. In the afternoon, several boats are on the water, and after each group picks their spots at popular locations like Elephant Bay, it’s hard to move around. Talk to your guide, be decisive, and claim your photo locations early.
Boat rides end much earlier than game drives. In October, park gates close at 7:00 pm. In contrast, our boat had to be outside the park limits between 5:30 and 6:00 pm. These rules make it hard to be in the right spots for silhouettes and late evening photos. Be mindful of this limitation.
Morning boat rides are more birding-focused. Afternoons are better for elephants and mammals. Pick your cruises based on what you want to see.
Spend at least one afternoon at Elephant Bay and try shooting backlit and sidelit images. The dry banks kick up a lot of dust, and you might get some striking shots.
Watch for elephants crossing the river. It’s a fantastic sight, even if the photos aren’t always perfect. When the elephants climb the Namibian banks, you can get incredible pictures against the blue sky.
All in all, if you’re in the region, you shouldn’t miss a spell on the Chobe River. To ride the natural, riverine border between Namibia and Botswana, even as the animals pay scant regard to such boundaries, is educative in its way. You’ll see nationalistic myths shatter against the reality of the natural world, and photos or not, you’ll have experienced one of the most stunning ecosystems in Africa. Isn’t that an experience to look forward to?