Khwai - the cheat code to the Okavango
Most Indians first learn about Africa from a couple of sources - Disney’s Lion King, or a BBC or National Geographic documentary. Perhaps I saw one of those documentaries, where lions crossed rivers, leopards lounged on leadwood trees, elephants and buffalo grazed by seasonal channels, and hippos snorted angrily at every irritant. Perhaps that documentary was set in the Okavango Delta.
Ever since I saw those images as a teenager, I’ve wanted to visit the Okavango. But I live in a low-income country, and as I grew older, the rupee became progressively weaker against the dollar. Each time I saw the per-night cost at any of the camps in the Delta, my heart sank. I’d often tease my son and tell him he’d have to take me to the Delta when he grows up. I couldn’t wait that long, though. I needed a cheat code — a way to experience the Delta without breaking the bank. The Khwai community concession is part of that Okavango cheat code.
After our easy-mode photography leg at Nxai Pan, we spent a night at Maun to restock and refuel. This time, we bought some excellent meat at Beef Boys, and the staff there froze it for us, ready for the next leg of our adventure. After several days of camping, we treated ourselves to a comfortable night at the Sedia hotel. Soft beds, a roof over our heads, a swimming pool, and a restaurant. You know, the good life!
The next morning, we stuffed ourselves like pythons at breakfast and took another hellish ride towards Khwai’s Magotho campsite. As I’ve mentioned earlier, we visited Botswana late in the dry season of what had already been a brutal drought. We’d booked ourselves into Khwai, imagining a green paradise, but it didn’t feel like paradise was right around the corner. The trees en route were bare, and the roads dustier than usual. We also missed a turn and ended up approaching the campsite from the north-eastern end of the dead tree forest. Our hearts sank further.
Wildlife uses Khwai Magotho as thoroughfare
But as we drove through the camelthorn trees to approach the river, the vegetation became greener. It was dry, for sure, but we could sense life everywhere when we arrived at the no-frills reception hut. As it turned out, we had to give up our campsite on the river to another couple who needed slightly firmer ground for wheelchair access, but the staff accommodated us at one of the cosy reserve campsites. Calling it a “campsite” was a stretch, since it had nothing but a few trees for shade. It was close to the ablutions, though, and that was a big plus.
Camping advice for Khwai Magotho
Campsites 1-4 are the best along the river, and campsite 9 is the most secluded, overlooking the dead tree forest. Campsite 4 is my favourite, because it has the best shade ever. If you can book any of these sites in advance, you’re golden.
If not, ask the staff to accommodate you at a reserve campsite. There are many of these sites along the river and at the northern edge as well. However, we preferred one close to the ablutions near the reception. Since we were sleeping in rooftop tents, we preferred ablutions that we could walk to, instead of ones that would require us to literally bring the house down!
Our campsite at Khwai
The campsite confusion may have been the only low point in our trip to Khwai. If there’s one word to describe the concession, it’s “alive”. Even before you pitch your tent at Magotho, the landscape hums with possibility. Elephants walk through camp. Drive to the riverside, and you’ll encounter all manner of wildlife. There’s a hippo pool right next to camp, where you can enjoy sunrise and sunset. The elephant beach offers an excellent spot to photograph elephants drinking or approaching the water. Red lechwe dot the landscape, and fish eagles bide their time for a kill. You go to sleep each night listening to lions. One night, a hyena stole my shoes and used them as stimulating chew toys.
Several factors make Khwai unique. First, it borders Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park. Since it shares the floodplains and the woodlands of the Delta, it also shares its biodiversity with parks like Moremi. North of Magotho lies the iconic, dead camelthorn tree forest. We had little luck here, but we imagine that in years with better rain, the area could have far more promise for big game sightings. South of Magotho, the eponymous Khwai River runs northwest to southeast. Not only is the river a magnet for wildlife, it’s also the perfect game drive route for light seekers, such as yours truly. Wherever you look along the river, there’s a postcard waiting to be shot. I’ve rarely visited such a picture-perfect destination.
While predators can be a hit-or-miss, we had some good luck with leopards there. We enjoyed almost three full days of leopard sightings, thanks to some intel from fellow campers Christo Crous and Liezel Basckin. We couldn’t score the wild dogs, though lions made some notable guest appearances. All that said, I have more photographs than I can process, and I’ve only scratched the surface of what this wilderness offers.
Photography and game driving advice.
Khwai is a fabulous photography location, especially if you’re not fixated on predators. On a longish trip, you’ll likely see predators, but I suggest being light-driven, not subject-driven, in your photography pursuits. Follow the tracks and look for predators, but if you can’t find them, don’t stop shooting. There are plenty of other images to make, if you’re alert to the possibilities. Here’s some more advice I can share from my experience in Khwai. The embedded map, below, should be a handy reference.
Use the river as a guide for your game drives. Drive east in the mornings, and if you go a few clicks up north on the Chobe cutline, and look to the right side of the road, you may spot animals that yield some fabulous backlit images. Similarly, driving west in the afternoons can yield striking images in the afternoons. If it’s front-lit images you’re after, reverse the routes.
The area around Magotho campsite is always buzzing with action. It also has the majority of campers, so if you’re looking for information about sightings, you’ll always find someone to seek help from. That said, the Khwai Safari grounds campsite and the Mbudi campsite are the more tranquil parts of the concession. It also appears to be the most conducive habitat for leopard sightings. We couldn’t visit the hyena den here because it was so far from us, so maybe the next time around, we’ll split time across Magotho and one of these other campsites.
The roads by the riverbank often have two tracks. One at river level and the other a bit higher for times when the river is in spate. In the dry season, you can drive on the lower level and photograph animals at eye level. In fact, Khwai offers many opportunities to get nice and low, so use the natural undulations to your advantage.
The landscape at Khwai is stunning - featuring a river, tall trees, lush greenery, and African megafauna. Even the eerie, dead tree forest with its sandy floor makes for a stunning habitat. Pull out wider focal lengths to showcase this habitat.
The elephants at Khwai are incredibly tolerant. You can be within touching distance, but be sure to turn off your engine after you’ve found a suitable position. Breeding herds, particularly the mums, find the constant hum of the cars quite annoying, but they relax when we shut our vehicles off. Shoot to your heart’s content, but watch their cues and be respectful. Ellies will often warn you with fanned out ears and a shake of the head, so you’ll know when to stay till.
🖱️ Drag the slider to see how the same scene can come alive in a monochrome image.
Places like the dead tree forest, various riverbanks, and Elephant Beach offer productive locations for making monochrome images. Look for compositions with strong shapes and high contrast, and photograph them with a monochrome profile to get a sense for how your final image will turn out.
As a community concession with no policing, Khwai has a massive number of unofficial tracks. With these many back roads, it's challenging to determine where the action is. If you can afford it, spend a couple of nights at one of the lodges in the concession to get a sense of game movements before you explore by yourself. Khwai may also be an excellent location to engage a mobile camping outfit, such as Thru-the-lens.
Speaking of navigating the concession, don’t trust the tracks the online maps show you. They’re often longer than necessary. Instead, follow your sense of direction and head towards your destinations using the most intuitive paths in front of you. If you overlay a satellite view, you’ll be able to see the tracks on them and make the proper judgment calls about the route you should take.
Try a mokoro ride in good light. After all, it’s these channels that make the delta such a magnet for wildlife. You’ll see birds, animals, frogs, and vegetation from water level — imagine a hippo’s perspective of the delta. Moreover, it’s another level of tranquillity. No engine noise, just the gentle splash of the pole and the hush of water.
Crossing the Mbudi channel is not for the faint of heart. We crossed several times to find ourselves some leopards, but I suggest always waiting to see where other vehicles cross before attempting a crossing on your own. I’ve marked two crossing points on the map (Deep Crossing and Acacia Crossing), which are the easiest for regular 4x4 vehicles to negotiate.
All in all, I reflect on my days in Khwai with great fondness. I have vivid memories - the soft elephant footsteps across camp that got my mate, Anuroop, excited, and the roars of the lions from across the river in Moremi. I remember the heart-stopping search for leopards, the riverside sunsets, and the emotional moments that Gayathri, Anuroop, and I shared. It’s a place worth returning to, and I know that my journey to Khwai won’t be my last. I’ll be back someday, camera in hand, ready to chase new light. Moremi and Savuti will also be part of that next trip.
If you’re a photographer, consider Khwai a rare gift. Every bend in the river and patch of forest reveals a scene that screams Africa. If you’ve ever dreamed of capturing the Okavango’s spirit, this concession opens the door. So plan your visit, because this patch of Botswana will inspire your photographic portfolio, and perhaps, a piece of your own story.
Fish eagles at dawn